KEL-TEC SUB-2000 Muzzle Brake (9mm Only)

I was nervous about placing this muzzle brake on my sub 2000 gen 2 rifle. But MCarbo is here to make sure you have all the right amount of knowledge. The barrel jaws is a MUST. Without it, I would have surely destroyed my gun in the process. Also, if you are not that handy, MCarbo does have an option to mail your rifle and let someone else work on it. I think having options is what makes this company great. As for the installment, I will admit that I may not have had the best tools for the job. But even then, I made it work. I used a 3.25" clamp-on vise. If you go with this option, just know that the rifle will slip or roll. Not by a lot, but if you are not paying attention you may mess up the front sights. Luckily I did not have to do much torquing to get the muzzle in the right position. Once in position, I inspected the rifle and took it to the range. I shot a little over 300 rounds and immediately could tell the difference. The recoil is less and it is just as accurate as it ever was. Overall, I think MCarbo provided a lot of information and made this job a success.

Why I support Mcarbo:

1. They are Combat Veteran owned.
2. They support the Military/LEO’s (I was both)
3. Their components are Detail Engineered
4. Exceptional QUALITY
5. Customer Service is A+++
6. They offer ”How To” detailed videos for most components
7. Fast shipping and Outstanding order communications

Note: Basically I rebuilt my Kel Tec sub 2000, Gen 2

Pretty straightforward install. Do not even think about sticking this bad boy on without a vise and the nifty vise blocks mcarbo boys sell. At least in my case it took a lot of force to center it including counter torque with a 3/4" open end wrench on the sight nut. A LOT. In fact i would recommend holding the sight nut to eliminate some of the force twisting the barrel in the vise.....masking tape protecting barrel kinda slips unless you really crank the vise....I tightened the vise pretty good to the point i was afraid of damaging barrel. Took 10 minutes and no damage. Very pleased and looks very professional.

Outside of the bolt cover tube, this muzzle break is really was grabbed my attention with M-Carbo. Make sure you order the Jaws and have a vice to grip hold of your barrel before you do anything, I was able to get a table top vice for $40 off Amazon. I also used JB weld when threading this on since I live in a state that requires a permanent attached muzzle device. Between using that with the crush washer, this muzzle isn’t going anywhere. I’m so looking forward to the range now.

Installation was very straight forward; however, there is one fly in the ointment. I order the vise jaws, and according to the installation video, the inside of the jaws are supposed to be machine-contoured to fit the barrel. The ones I received are not. The vise jaws in the video appear (not confirmed) to be longer than the actual ones I received. The vice jaws did not hold the barrel completely in the jaws, there was about an 3/8" air gap in the bottom of the "vee". I used painter's masking tape on the barrel, and used the stock, folded up perpendicular to the barrel to keep the barrel from rotating inside the jaws and installation was smooth and trouble-free. There was no marring on the barrel when the tape was removed. I can't wait to go to the range to try out this and the other goodies I installed on this neat rifle.

 

This part is exactly as it is described. Threads were cut perfect. All surfaces are finely machined. Arrived with a crunch washer for installation.
It would be nice if the customer was offered a choice between the Crunch Washer or a Jam Nut. I purchased a jam nut separately from another source.

The jaws should be longer, even though I tightened the vise (I even used a rubber mallet to tap the vise's handle to tighten it more) the rifle barrel still moved. I did use masking tape on the barrel, but when the barrel moved the tape tore scratching, marring the barrel.
Following the video's instruction when I hand tightened the muzzle brake, it ended up in the 12 o'clock position which meant I had to turn the brake a full 360 degrees. Every time the brake would tighten, I would release pressure on the crush washer and attempt to tighten the brake again as demonstrated in the video. This process didn't seem to help much at all.
When I had about 15 degrees left in order to have the brake in the 12 o'clock position, I couldn't budget the brake anymore, I decided to forget the whole thing and not use the muzzle brake. I removed the muzzle brake, but I wasn't able to remove the crush washer.
I eventually replaced the muzzle brake, added extra masking tape used a vice grip and kept tapping the vise grip with a rubber mallet until the brake moved to the 12 o'clock position.
If the muzzle brake didn't have to move a full 360 degrees, I think it would have been a much easier install.
Would it be possible to supply 2 crush washers? One thicker and another thinner in case the muzzle brake needs to turn a full 360 degrees?

Makes a difference in controlling the firearm. Good investment.