Adjusting Parallax on non AO scope
Read this First: If a rifle scope has an adjustable objective (AO)
on it, there is no need to perform this change to it, as it already has the
ability to change focus based on distance. This is only for adjusting parallax on non AO scope.
WARNING: Never take the lens carrier out of the scope
after you have removed the ¼” lock ring.
This will allow nitrogen to escape and will require a factory repair. The nitrogen won’t hurt you, but it will hurt
Parallax occurs when the image and the reticle are not on
the same focal plane. This causes apparent
movement of the reticle across the target.
Proper focus of the reticle to the shooter’s eye and then adjustment of
the focus knob will eliminate this problem. A scope with a fixed power (2x, 4x, 6x, 8x)
setting has one parallax-free distance because it only has one power setting; aka adjusting parallax fixed parallax scope. The variable high power scopes ( 6x-20x,
8x-40x, etc.) that have an AO, need not be messed with but; What if you have a cheaper fixed power scope or
a variable low power scope(2x-7x, 3x-9x) and their isn’t an AO knob to allow
adjustment of the parallax? Well then
you’ve come to the right place. If you're reading this article then I’m sure it’s
safe to assume that you have a different range in mind other than what the
factory adjusted your parallax for. Let’s get down to business and start adjusting the parallax on a rifle scope.
Note: Low power
variable scopes must be turned up to the highest power and remain there during
the entire parallax adjustment.
If you look at Nikons, Leupolds, Tascos, Simmons and many
other types of scopes you will see a ¼” ring on the bell of the scope. The bell of the scope is the opposite end
from the eye piece. You will need to
take this ¼” ring off of the front of the scope. I recommend taking a trip to the hardware
store and buying a strap wrench (wrench with a rubber strap) to avoid damaging
your scope ring. Make sure you only
remove the ¼” ring and you do not take the lens carrier completely out of the
scope as it is only sealed with “O” rings.
Once you have removed the ¼” ring off of the bell of the
scope you will see the lens carrier underneath.
This is where the factory makes adjustments in order to adjust the
parallax. Before making your adjustment,
set your rifle in a rest or properly support it on a bench. Point your scope at an object that is not
moving and is at the distance you want to adjust your parallax for. Rotate the lens carrier ring inward or
outward to adjust the parallax. As you rotate
the lens carrier in and out look through the scope at the object and move your
head around as you are looking through the scope. You will see that the object tends to move
while the crosshairs remain steady, this is parallax. When you have completely adjusted your scope
to eliminate your parallax, you should be able to look through the scope and
the crosshairs remain on target no matter how much you move your head
around. Once you get to this point, you’ve
just manually eliminated your parallax at the new preferred distance. Now put the 1/4” ring back on the bell of the
scope and tighten it up with the strap wrench.
You just saved yourself the time, money and trouble of
mailing the scope in to the factory to have it adjusted. This
method is exactly what the factory does, on all of the scopes listed
above. It is relatively risk free as
long as you follow the directions listed here.
*** We are not responsible for what you do or don’t do to
your scope. Try this at your own risk***